Surfer Dad is 2 today, hip, hip, hooray!
When speaking to the few who have read my blog, the posts remembered and discussed are those where I share a snippet of my life.
So for Surfer Dad’s 2nd Birthday, I’ve interviewed myself, using questions from old surf mag interviews.
Hopefully this will be more entertaining than posting my LinkedIn profile.
Which of your accomplishments outside the water would you say you’re most proud of?
Steph Gilmore, Surfer
Having a great life in Cornwall
Having a great life in Cornwall. It’s not easy to earn a respectable salary in a job you like, live with the woman you love and nurture a happy child. But with a lot of help from my friends, I have managed to do it and stay in the place I love the most – Cornwall.
Have you ever been contacted by fashion companies or modelling agencies?
Alana Blanchard, Freak Surf
I once appeared in a Liberal Democrats leaflet, because a local politician wanted his photo with a surfer. Beat that Blanchard!
When did you start surfing and why?
Alana Blanchard, Freak Surf
I started surfing when I was 15, two years after moving to Cornwall from London. It was an option on ‘activities week’ at school. I also did trampolining, community work and rock climbing, but surfing stuck.
Who was the biggest influence on your surfing?
Kelly Slater, Surfing
Me – learning to surf
John Barlow. He was a temporary sports teacher in my secondary school. We would stay in his caravan on Constantine Golf Course at weekends and he’d teach us to surf – it was brilliant. Sadly, I don’t think teachers are trusted enough for this sort of thing to happen today. Tom Curren has had his moments too.
Who influences you now in your life?
Kelly Slater, Surfing
My partner, my daughter, my friends and my boss have all forced me to think different, and I’m probably a better person for it.
Also, Winnie The Pooh.
Your kids are surfers as well: do you think their future will be different from what you’ve experienced?
Tom Curren, Rip Curl Planet
Surfer Daughter – not quite ready for the waves
My daughter is not quite a surfer yet. But hopefully this year…
Her future will be different, but the essence of surfing will hopefully remain the same.
You’re consistently recognized as one of the most stylish surfers—man or woman—in the sport. How would you define good style?
Steph Gilmore, Surfer
In the water I find other surfers barely notice the style of those around them, unless you’re showstopping pro or a laughable learner.
So a good style is a style you enjoy, a style that allows you to catch lots of waves and make the most of them, without annoying those around you.
However, my signature straight leg cutback with a hokey cokey arm wave manoeuvre, occasionally raises a few eyebrows.
Well, I am really interested to talk to you about your new board.
Shaun Tomson, ESPN
My longboard in the making
I haven’t had a new board for a while. I only own 3 boards – 1 x 9’1” performance longboard, 1 x Fluid Juice 6’6” all rounder and a 6’5” battered backup board.
Ideally I would have a twin fin, retro single fin, and a much shorter board in my quiver. But I have trouble enough deciding between longboard or shortboard, and a more varied quiver is unlikely to improve my surfing at age 38.
Do you worry about the threat of global warming and pollution on our best breaks?
Tyler Wright, Cooler
Yep, 20 years ago raw sewage was pumped straight into the sea in the UK. Thanks to relentless pressure from Surfers Against Sewage and other environmental groups, we now enjoy clean waves most of the time.
I try and do my bit, like taking home litter I find on the beach and supporting environmental groups.
You’ve been known not only as a role model, but a bit of a moral compass. You’ve kept tabs on the media and the establishment when you think they’re going in the wrong direction. How are we doing today, as far as the media and the general surf world?
Shaun Tomson, ESPN
Surf mags are mostly adverts, big surf brands are downsizing dramatically, and women’s pro surfing struggles to attract sponsors. I would say the commercial world of surfing is suffering.
On the bright side there’s some great surf blogs available.
Name your top five Aussie surf spots?
Occy, TNT
Bells Beach on a rest day
• Lefties – north of Margaret River. Rode my biggest wave there, a local said it was 14ft.
• Byron Bay – spent six weeks enjoying the waves and wild-life.
• Phillip Island – near Melbourne. Only place I’ve paddled out to a lone surfer and he was pleased to meet me. Apparently it reduces the odds! (Hint: Shark).
• Bells Beach – the most beautiful spot I’ve never surfed. Surprisingly undeveloped and unrideably small when I visited.
• Not sure about a fifth, but Occy could only name three!
Do you surf much yourself these days?
Occy, TNT
In the winter, I go when I can. In the summer, I make sure I surf at least once a week.
I’d like to surf more, and sometimes I do. But as a surfer, father, lover, friend and hard-worker, there’s often a conflict of interests.
If you weren’t a surfer, you’d be…
Occy, TNT
Less happy, less healthy and not so environmentally friendly. But better off financially.
When that day does come and you do choose to retire, what do you think you’ll do?
Taj Burrow, Surfer
When I retire (which is at least 20yrs away) I’ll surf more. I’ll never retire from surfing.
As the surf quote goes “There is nothing, nothing, more sad than a surfer who used to surf.”
If you have any questions you’d like to ask me, Surfer Dad, please leave a comment and I promise to answer.