Whilst ‘stumbling toward enlightenment and the perfect ride’ Jaimal Yogis has learnt a lot, and he’s put the good stuff in All Our Waves Are Water. It’s a mix of epic surf adventure, love and heartbreak, spiritual quest and the inescapable force of real life. If you’re a surfer, interested in philosophy or religion and […]
Hound of the Sea by Garrett McNamara
Hound of the Sea is Garrett McNamara’s life story so far, from hippie childhood to professional big wave surfer. Most surfers have heard of Garrett ‘Gmac’ McNamara or at least about his world record breaking 78ft wave at Nazare, Portugal. To ride waves like this you need to be different, in a slightly scary way. […]
Mindfulness and Surfing by Sam Bleakley
There’s more to Mindfulness and Surfing than the title suggests. With every turn of a page you discover something different. Religion, history, travel, environment, music and more. And these nuggets of knowledge are shared in poems, exercises, recollections, philosophies and short stories. To bind these varied strands together, there is of course a strong thread […]
Surfing books for everyone
If you like reading and love surfing, you’re in luck. Surf books now cover genres from science-fiction to sexy romance, and are written for surfers of all ages. If you’re looking for a gift to give a surfer, or want to expand your own library, here’s a few surfing themed books I can personally recommend: […]
Psycho Tropics Review
Wouldn’t it be nice to win the lottery, surf all day and drink all night? Oh, and occasionally play guitar in a band. Danny Teakwell does just that and is living the dream, or so it appears. In hope of seeing a long lost sweetheart, he reluctantly attends a high school reunion. At the reunion […]
Pier Rats Review
Pier Rats is now in my top 3 surf books ever, and I’ve read a lot of surf books. Pier Rats has been written for salty old sea dogs and teenage groms. It has the surfing insight and emotion of Breath by Tim Winton, but without the kinky sex. It contains the adventure and thrill […]
Surf Fiction: Breath by Tim Winton
If you love surfing and reading, but haven’t yet read Breath by Tim Winton – then stop reading this and go buy it. Now. Breath is by far the best surf fiction book I have read, in fact it’s in my top ten books ever. My original plan was to read through all the best […]