Quality mind surfing material
Libraries are not a surfer’s natural habitat, and good surfing books are on the endangered list.
Thanks to the dedicated work of a few intrepid surfers and eloquent wave enthusiasts, there are few rare surfing reads worth searching for. 10 Over Surf Shop has a fine selection of surf books, surf magazines and even surf prints.
Here’s my top ten surf book discoveries:
1. Breath by Tim Winton
Breath by Tim Winton
Breath is my favourite surf fiction book ever. It’s a coming of age story, in which Pikelet, a young boy on the West coast of Oz, discovers the thrill of surfing. As the title implies the book has a ‘breath’ theme throughout.
As a kid, Pikelet and his best mate ‘Loonie’ would scare onlookers by seeing who could hold their breath underwater the longest. As a teen, the thrill of big wave riding caused a few heavy hold downs. And asphyxiation, resuscitation and didgeridoos all played their part in Pikelet’s adult life.
With experience and emotion drawn from the West Oz ocean, Tim Winton has conjured mythical waves for all to enjoy in Breath. From the fun peelers at The Point to the mind-blowing gut-wrenching Nautilus, there’s something for every surfer to soak up. Read my full review of Breath here.
2. Dogs of Winter by Kem Nunn
Dogs of Winter by Kem Nunn
I’m currently reading this book for the third time. Kem Nunn’s Tijuana Straits and Tapping the Source, are also awesome surf books, far better than the usual surf fiction fodder. But Dogs of Winter is my personal favourite.
Kem Nunn writes surf fiction with a dark side, and Dogs of Winter is no exception. Terrible deaths, forbidden waves, local legends, crazed surfers and a washed up photographer, all stirred together in a remote Californian Indian reservation.
If you haven’t read a Kem Nunn book, do yourself a favour and order one. Now. Go on then.
3. Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
William Finnegan’s descriptions of surfing and waves are the best I’ve ever read. Long, detailed and emotional, Finnegan captures the essence of what it means to be a surfer.
For an international journalist and New Yorker writer, Finnegan is surprisingly open about his own feelings and friendships. His honesty, wordsmanship and obsession with waves will take you on a ride across every wave imaginable, from Pacific Island perfection to brutal monsters on the cold San Francisco coast.
If you want to know what it’s like to ride big waves and travel the world before it was cool, read Barbarian Days.
4. In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer’s Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road by Allan Weisbecker
In Search of Captain Zero by Allan Weisbecker
It’s hard to believe but In Search of Captain Zero is actually a memoir not a work of fiction. As Allan Weisbecker nostalgically recalls his drug smuggling mishaps, Mexican misadventure and a melancholy mission to find his old best buddy ‘Captain Zero’.
From the safe haven of his seaside home in New York to the lawless limits of Central America. Weisbecker’s journey is packed full of deep thoughts, remote waves, colourful characters, and travelling challenges.
His mission is to find long lost friend and fellow surfer Christopher Conner AKA Captain Zero. He fears Chris has ‘gone off the rails’. Considering the extraordinary lifestyles they lead together during the ‘good times’ this could be bad, possibly fatal. Hope is all Weisbecker has to go on.
A true tale, of true surfers living exotic surfing lifestyles, but all good stories come to an end.
5. All Our Waves Are Water by Jaimal Yogis
All Our Waves Are Water by Jaimal Yogis
Whilst ‘stumbling toward enlightenment and the perfect ride’ Jaimal Yogis has learnt a lot, and he’s put the good stuff in All Our Waves Are Water.
It’s a mix of epic surf adventure, love and heartbreak, spiritual quest and the inescapable force of real life.
If you’re a surfer, interested in philosophy or religion and love a good read, I highly recommend you give this a go.
Not convinced? Read my full review of All Our Waves Are Water here.
6. The Dawn Patrol by Don Winslow
The Dawn Patrol by Don Winslow
The Dawn Patrol is a little more light hearted, but like most successful surf fiction, there is a sinister undercurrent.
Boone Daniels is a P.I. in boardshorts based in San Diego. He’s a talented sleuth by trade but a devoted surfer by nature. Just as a once-in-a-lifetime swell is predicted to hit, so does a complicated case that Boone is compelled to take.
Dead strippers, Hawaiian gangs and trafficked Mexican girls, cause the case to take a dark and unpredicted course. Boone gets sucked into an emotional whirlpool, from which only his Dawn Patrol buddies can rescue him.
Will Boone catch the baddies and ride the giant swell, or will the case and his life get sucked into an eternal darkness?
7. In Waves by A J Dungo
In Waves by AJ Dungo
In Waves by AJ Dungo is a rare and exquisite graphic novel every surfer and art lover will covet. Sight-soothing illustrations, intriguing surf history and a heart-breaking but life-affirming personal story, make this a truly unique surf book.
From the fascinating lives of Duke Kahanamoku and Tom Blake, to a tragic experience of loss, grieving and solace in surfing. In Waves weaves these tales in an irresistible 367 page tome you’ll treasure forever.
Dungo describes his book as ‘a love letter to my late partner Kristen Tuason. It’s a book that highlights the significance of relationships, past and present. My hope is that it communicates the idea that one important person can change your life forever.’
8. Pier Rats by Bruce Greif
Pier Rats by Bruce Greif
Whether your a salty old sea dog or a teenage grom, Pier Rats will have you effortlessly turning pages with a smile on your face.
It has the surfing insight and emotion of Breath by Tim Winton, but without the kinky sex.
It contains the adventure and thrill of a Kem Nunn novel, but without the dark adult edge.
However, it’s not candy coated for kids. So beware, the contents of this book are physically, socially and criminally hazardous. Get more Pier Rats info and an interview with the author here.
9. Amazing Surf Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders by Alex Wade
Amazing Surf Stories by Alex Wade
A collection of short but genuinely amazing surf stories, from a fellow Cornwall dweller.
Before I read this I thought Garrett McNamara surfing giant waves from crumbling glaciers was a hoax, and had no idea that ‘Kelly’ isn’t Slater’s real first name.
I was expecting more ‘story’ if I’m honest, as all of these little surf gems are told in Alex Wade’s concise columnist style. But what I first thought a fault later became a strength, as each tale is quickly read, easily remembered and joyfully recounted.
Amazing surf stories has given me more tales to tell with surfer friends than any other book.
10. Native Moments by Nic Schuck
Native Moments by Nic Schuck
After the death of his brother, Sanch Murray runs away on a surf trip in a bid to escape sorrow, responsibility and mundanity. With his friend and mentor Jake Higdon, they wander the dirt roads of Costa Rica circa 1999, in search of waves, women and a surfing traveller’s paradise.
In the coming of age escapade that unfolds, these fearless surf explorers experience being a matador at a rodeo, a battle with dysentry and falling in love with a local prostitute.
This might be the best surf book you’ve never heard of. With authentic surf adventures, life defining moments and an unexpected ending, Native Moments leaves a lasting impression.
There are many fantastic books about surfing, and naturally fitting my favourites into a top ten was frustrating. Those that only just missed the mark include Mindfulness and Surfing by Sam Bleakley, God Clobbers Us All by Poe Ballantine, and Surfers Code by Shaun Tomson.
Shouting at the screen saying ‘how can you not include …’? Let us know in the comments below 🙂
If you liked Breathe try to track down a copy of Sly by Rick Feneley. It was never a bestseller, which is a shame, because I think it’s Breathe’s equal. It’s also Australian, set on the South Coast of NSW
Happy reading
Hi Andrew,
Thanks for the suggestion, I will order Sly now. If it’s as good as you say I’ll no doubt wax lyrical about it here soon.
Cheers
Hi Andrew,
Thanks for the suggestion, I will order Sly now. If it’s as good as you say I’ll no doubt wax lyrical about it here soon.
Cheers
If you liked Breathe try to track down a copy of Sly by Rick Feneley. It was never a bestseller, which is a shame, because I think it’s Breathe’s equal. It’s also Australian, set on the South Coast of NSW
Happy reading
Would you recommend any of there for a 10 year old very keen beginner?
Cheers mate
Hi Phil,
Amazing Surf Stories by Alex Wade is suitable for a young audience and should inspire any grom.
For a fantastic surf fiction novel try Pier Rats, see: https://www.surferdad.co.uk/pier-rats-review
It’s aimed at young adults so there might be unsuitable bits for a 10 year old. I guess it depends on how liberal you are and how mature the reader is.
Thanks for leaving a comment
Not sure about Pier Rats, but I’d recommend the Lockie Leonard series which, incidentally, is written by Tim Winton, who wrote Breathe. Strongly recommended for a 10 yo. My son loved it.
And while I’m here, Andrew, did you ever read Sly? Just curious
Cheers
Andrew S
Hi Andrew,
Thanks for the recommendations. I couldn’t find a copy of Sly, but will try again and look for some Lockie Leonard while I’m at it.
Thanks again
Hi Andrew,
Thanks for the recommendations. I couldn’t find a copy of Sly, but will try again and look for some Lockie Leonard while I’m at it.
Thanks again
Right I’ve just ordered two Lockie Leonard books, but can only find a Kindle version or £20 used copy of Sly.
So if anyone knows where I can find a reasonably priced paper version of Sly by Rick Feneley please let me know.
Hi Andrew
No sign of a paper copy I’m afraid, but there is an inexpensive eCopy here http://momentumbooks.com.au/books/sly/
Cheers
Andrew
Hi Andrew
No sign of a paper copy I’m afraid, but there is an inexpensive eCopy here http://momentumbooks.com.au/books/sly/
Cheers
Andrew
Right I’ve just ordered two Lockie Leonard books, but can only find a Kindle version or £20 used copy of Sly.
So if anyone knows where I can find a reasonably priced paper version of Sly by Rick Feneley please let me know.
Not sure about Pier Rats, but I’d recommend the Lockie Leonard series which, incidentally, is written by Tim Winton, who wrote Breathe. Strongly recommended for a 10 yo. My son loved it.
And while I’m here, Andrew, did you ever read Sly? Just curious
Cheers
Andrew S
Hi Phil,
Amazing Surf Stories by Alex Wade is suitable for a young audience and should inspire any grom.
For a fantastic surf fiction novel try Pier Rats, see: https://www.surferdad.co.uk/pier-rats-review
It’s aimed at young adults so there might be unsuitable bits for a 10 year old. I guess it depends on how liberal you are and how mature the reader is.
Thanks for leaving a comment
Would you recommend any of there for a 10 year old very keen beginner?
Cheers mate
My novel, Rocketbar Amicus (On-Demand Publishing 2012), is sci-fi dealing with ending dystopias when they crop up. The story has a light-hearted tone. This is a future where surfing leads all other sports and pastimes. While not on our surfboard building site, the work is on Amazon.com, Kindle, and others. I signed the story up a for a movie deal in 2014 with an independent U.S. company.
My novel, Rocketbar Amicus (On-Demand Publishing 2012), is sci-fi dealing with ending dystopias when they crop up. The story has a light-hearted tone. This is a future where surfing leads all other sports and pastimes. While not on our surfboard building site, the work is on Amazon.com, Kindle, and others. I signed the story up a for a movie deal in 2014 with an independent U.S. company.
Great list! Breath and Captain Zero are two of my favorites as well. Caught Inside by Daniel Duane is a must-read if you have not read it yet.
Hi Kevin, I was loaned a copy of Caught Inside but I never finished it. For whatever reason (can’t remember now) it didn’t grab my attention. I’ll give it another go soon.
If you like non-fiction surf reads you’ll struggle to beat William Finnegan’s Barbarian Days, I wrote a bit about here: https://www.surferdad.co.uk/surfing-books-everyone
Thanks for taking the time to read and comment. Cheers
Yeah, I am about a third of the way into Barbarian Days and am thoroughly enjoying it. I’m kind of surprised that it won the Pulitzer though.
Give Caught Inside another chance. It is excellent in my opinion.
A book about surfing won a Pulitzer! Yeah that is surprising. I guess he’s very well connected.
Definitely gonna have another go at Caught Inside now. Thanks again.
A book about surfing won a Pulitzer! Yeah that is surprising. I guess he’s very well connected.
Definitely gonna have another go at Caught Inside now. Thanks again.
Yeah, I am about a third of the way into Barbarian Days and am thoroughly enjoying it. I’m kind of surprised that it won the Pulitzer though.
Give Caught Inside another chance. It is excellent in my opinion.
Hi Kevin, I was loaned a copy of Caught Inside but I never finished it. For whatever reason (can’t remember now) it didn’t grab my attention. I’ll give it another go soon.
If you like non-fiction surf reads you’ll struggle to beat William Finnegan’s Barbarian Days, I wrote a bit about here: https://www.surferdad.co.uk/surfing-books-everyone
Thanks for taking the time to read and comment. Cheers
Great list! Breath and Captain Zero are two of my favorites as well. Caught Inside by Daniel Duane is a must-read if you have not read it yet.
Great List. Thank you. I also give Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan a big ‘yes’ – it pulls surfers and non surfers alike through a life journey that is both bone blasting and, somehow… mellow.
Hi Mike, thanks for the kind words. I love your description of Barbarian Days – spot on. If you’ve read any good surf books that I haven’t mentioned please let me know. I’m always on the lookout for something new. Cheers
Hi Mike, thanks for the kind words. I love your description of Barbarian Days – spot on. If you’ve read any good surf books that I haven’t mentioned please let me know. I’m always on the lookout for something new. Cheers
Great List. Thank you. I also give Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan a big ‘yes’ – it pulls surfers and non surfers alike through a life journey that is both bone blasting and, somehow… mellow.
New Surfing Novel (plus bonus real-life surf stories about surfing Bixby and Hollister Ranch)
On a private stretch of remote California coast a surf obsessed teenage boy and a hateful old rancher face off. They have only one thing in common — an innocent young cowgirl.
Stoker seems to only care about catching waves and the lobster poachers who are stealing from his traps, but is somehow reluctantly tied to all of the unfolding events.
Many of the scenes in this fictional story are based on true stories as told by Hollister and Bixby Ranch surfers. Readers will find “The Last Holdout,” a bonus collection of interviews with the original Hollister and Bixby Ranch surfers, at the end of this story.
Hi Dave, your new novel Loaded Barrels looks interesting.
Let me know when and where it’s available to buy in the UK.
Good luck
Hi Dave, your new novel Loaded Barrels looks interesting.
Let me know when and where it’s available to buy in the UK.
Good luck
New Surfing Novel (plus bonus real-life surf stories about surfing Bixby and Hollister Ranch)
On a private stretch of remote California coast a surf obsessed teenage boy and a hateful old rancher face off. They have only one thing in common — an innocent young cowgirl.
Stoker seems to only care about catching waves and the lobster poachers who are stealing from his traps, but is somehow reluctantly tied to all of the unfolding events.
Many of the scenes in this fictional story are based on true stories as told by Hollister and Bixby Ranch surfers. Readers will find “The Last Holdout,” a bonus collection of interviews with the original Hollister and Bixby Ranch surfers, at the end of this story.
Dear Andrew,
Thank you for compiling this great list of surf books! I’m a surf writer, too, and I hope you’ll consider adding my book, Chasing Waves to your list. It’s a surf travel memoir told from a woman’s perspective. It came out in 2009. It’s available on Amazon. You can also read about my new book, which is being published May 9th, 2017, on my website: http://www.amywaeschle.com. It’s a novel called Going Over the Falls. It’s a surf adventure crossed with a family saga.
I’m excited to see a lot of surf books I hadn’t seen before here. Especially the ones for kids. I have two daughters and my oldest loves the water and is starting to surf. My youngest is a thinker and quite timid, so will come to surfing in her own time. Our whole family loves to read as well as spend time outside. I will have to figure out a way to get some of these UK published books…they will be thrilled!
I loved reading about your travel tips and experiences. I’ve joined your newsletter so we can stay in touch. I’m a wave-starved mama, so I can relate to your life!
Many thanks for putting together a great website dedicated to surfing. And please do retry Caught Inside, it’s one of my favorites, and Dan has become a good friend over the years. A very humble and talented guy–he’s since become a dad, too, though he’s not so wave-starved as he lives near the beach in the San Francisco area.
Thanks again!
Amy Waeschle
Hi Amy,
Thanks for taking the time to comment and share.
Your books, family life and adventures sound fantastic.
I look forward to reading Chasing Waves and Going Over the Falls soon, and when time permits I’ll post a review.
Good luck with the new novel and teaching your daughters to surf.
I’m planning to post a few tips on teaching kids to surf soon, so if you have any advice to share let me know.
All the best Andrew
Hi Amy,
Thanks for taking the time to comment and share.
Your books, family life and adventures sound fantastic.
I look forward to reading Chasing Waves and Going Over the Falls soon, and when time permits I’ll post a review.
Good luck with the new novel and teaching your daughters to surf.
I’m planning to post a few tips on teaching kids to surf soon, so if you have any advice to share let me know.
All the best Andrew
Dear Andrew,
Thank you for compiling this great list of surf books! I’m a surf writer, too, and I hope you’ll consider adding my book, Chasing Waves to your list. It’s a surf travel memoir told from a woman’s perspective. It came out in 2009. It’s available on Amazon. You can also read about my new book, which is being published May 9th, 2017, on my website: http://www.amywaeschle.com. It’s a novel called Going Over the Falls. It’s a surf adventure crossed with a family saga.
I’m excited to see a lot of surf books I hadn’t seen before here. Especially the ones for kids. I have two daughters and my oldest loves the water and is starting to surf. My youngest is a thinker and quite timid, so will come to surfing in her own time. Our whole family loves to read as well as spend time outside. I will have to figure out a way to get some of these UK published books…they will be thrilled!
I loved reading about your travel tips and experiences. I’ve joined your newsletter so we can stay in touch. I’m a wave-starved mama, so I can relate to your life!
Many thanks for putting together a great website dedicated to surfing. And please do retry Caught Inside, it’s one of my favorites, and Dan has become a good friend over the years. A very humble and talented guy–he’s since become a dad, too, though he’s not so wave-starved as he lives near the beach in the San Francisco area.
Thanks again!
Amy Waeschle
The number one bestselling surf book for the last 12 weeks is BAD KARMA: The True Story of a Mexican Surf Trip from Hell. Thanks! Paul Wilson
Hi Paul,
Blimey, looks like you had one hell of a ride back then. Look forward to reading Bad Karma soon. Cheers
Perfectly written content, Really enjoyed examining.
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Have fun and enjoy the waves.